Rambling in Madeira
With
Shirley whitehead

Walk 14 - From Boca da Corrida to Pico Grande

Walking Time: Allow 2½ hours - (8 kms return)

Grade: A relatively strenuous walk along a mountain track with an initial ascent of just under 60 mtrs followed by a number of shorter ascents and descents along the route. Good paths with no precipitous places, but exposed mountain area which should only be undertaken in clear weather.

The walk starts from the car park and picnic area of the Casa Florestral at Boca da Corrida, on a mountain ridge above Estreito da Cãmara de Lobos. The Forestry House stands at 1,235 mtrs above sea level and is surrounded by sweet chestnut and conifer woodland and within its confines is a lovely shrine dedicated to São Cristovão. This is a really pretty area and a little haven before you venture out into the mountains. However, before starting the walk it is worthwhile taking a short detour on a path to the right of the car park which leads to a Miradoura. From here the views are truly magnificent and set the scene for what you are about to encounter along this walk. The north eastern vista takes in all the main peaks of the central massif as well as the great depression of Curral das Freiras (Nun’s Valley) where you can clearly see the parish scattered along the valley bottom. To the south lies São Martinho and the coast of Funchal and to the north west Pico Grande dominates the skyline. This is a Miradoura not to be missed.

Back at the car park, now follow the broad track to the left between the house and chapel and after approximately 15 mtrs take a narrow path uphill which soon climbs a series of stone steps. After a steady climb of 10 minutes, Pico Grande (at 1,657 mtrs) now towers ahead and is unmistakable due to the rocky castle-like formation on the summit. A little later the path levels out as it follows a wide ridge crossing a number of times from east to west thus providing magnificent view of both Curral das Freiras and the Encumeada Pass; from here on clear days, you can see the wind turbines on the Paúl da Serra plateau. The track also passes a number of steep ravines, many bearing a small copse of sweet chestnut, giving a refreshing relief to what would otherwise be a barren landscape. At a later point the path passes below a high rock wall where Tree Heaths and Pride of Madeira (Echium candicans) cling to the sloping hillside. This latter plant is the mountain variety of the two Echiums endemic to Madeira and is usually a deeper colour with longer inflorescences than its sister plant (Echium nervosum) which appears nearer the coast. After a total of 45 minutes the stony track now makes a descent down to a natural land bridge at Passo de Ares which is a narrow strip dividing the Brava and Socorridos river valleys. From here the path again traverses the eastern flank of the ridge passing a number of rocky outcrops below Pico do Serradinho before circling back to the western flank now providing good views down to Serra de Água and Vinháticas. From here you can pick out the ER104 as it climbs past the Residential Encumeada Hotel. Eventually after a total walking time of 1¼ hours you find yourself at Boca do Cerro just below the summit of Pico Grande and the continuing pathway can be clearly seen cut into the rock face below the mountain before making its descent to Encumeada. This route follows an old mule track, which in the past brought travellers from the north of the island to Cãmara de Lobos. Lucky for us that we now only walk for pleasure! At this point we now find ourselves beside a sign directing us right, which climbs up to Chão de Relva from where one can then continue climbing to the summit of Pico Grande; a demanding and difficult climb taking another hour or so, or alternatively it is possible to descend into Curral das Feiras, by what appears to be another rather torturous route.

Obviously, there are many mountain trails on Madeira, but unfortunately many are more suited to the experienced walker. However, due to the easy access to this walk and the relatively short ascents and descents, this route, whilst still challenging, is suitable for the less experienced and so enables us to enjoy the spectacular mountains views from this high altitude. Saying that however, Boca do Cerro was my chosen destination and on reaching that point I was satisfied that I had achieved my target and was happy to retrace my steps and enjoy the different perspectives of the return journey.

Spring is definitely the best time to undertake this walk. Not only to take advantage of the abundance of wild flora, at its best between March and June, but also to avoid the heat of summer when the landscape becomes arid and the route offers little protection against the summer sun. So if you want to get close to nature and enjoy a wonderful and challenging walk in this remote area then make sure you choose a clear day, take plenty of drinks and a picnic and I guarantee that you will have a wonderful walk and be rewarded with spectacular views from every vantage point.

After completing the walk and returning to the comfort of your transport, there is a final treat in store for those interested in Portuguese architecture. On the descent from the Forestry House, keep a look out for Quinta do Jardim da Serra, a three-stored pink Mansion House which was formerly the country estate of the rich and influential Englishman Henry Veitch. Veitch was Consul General on the island from 1809 – 1836 and as well as his political interests, he was also a wine merchant and architect of the Madeira Wine Museum and was also instrumental in the building of the English Church and Graveyard in Funchal. The Quinta was originally surrounded by exotic cultivated gardens against a backdrop of forests and mountains but the original magnificent setting now has to be imagined due to the unsympathetic design of an adjacent modern block. Nevertheless, the beautiful Quinta still stands within an area of original garden and is well worth a visit by those interested in Madeira’s history and architecture.

Directions:-

From Funchal follow the R101 in a westerly direction exiting at the sign for Estreito de Cãmara de Lobos. Now follow the ER229 as it climbs up to the centre of Estreito then taking a right turn signed Jardim da Serra. From here the road continues to climb, eventually reaching the Casa Florestal at Boca da Corrida. A total of 10.2 kms from the Rapido. Parking is available beside the Forestry House.

Email: shirleywhitehead@talk21.com
For other walks in the series visit:-
www.discovermadeira.homestead.com